Different leathers react differently to the same cleaners, so spot-check like your book’s life depends on it. If you really, really think you need to get the cloth moist, use almost no water and dry the book thoroughly afterward. Some resources suggest using a clean cloth with a little fabric softener, but try to avoid exposing your book to chemicals you’re not 100% sure about. You can use Absorbene, too, as well as document cleaning pads as described above. Work Carefully With Special Covers ClothĪrt gum is your best choice for cleaning cloth covers. Leave it for an hour or two, then remove it and brush the cornstarch out. Once the book is not sopping, sprinkle cornstarch between the pages and seal it in an airtight container. Paper towels are ideal because they’re thin and easy to work with you may need to change them every ten or fifteen minutes at first. If your book is dripping wet, you’ll need to put something absorbent between each page. Air shouldn’t be blowing right on the book. Airflow will help your afflicted paper friend dry out faster, but uneven drying can cause the book to warp. Set up a fan in another part of the room. When you’re ready, let the book thaw before you start working on it. That should prevent or slow mold growth while you get organized. If you need to make preparations for the cleaning of your wet book, put that book in a sealed bag and stick it in the freezer first. Dry the book before you mitigate the mold, dirt, or stains. Don’t try to wipe the pages, either, because you could smudge or tear them. Deal with Dampnessįirst, don’t panic if your book is wet. Here’s a demonstration of how to use it.įinally, if all else fails, try using the citrus-based Brodex Multipurpose Cleaner. It’s a kind of pink putty that picks up an amazing amount of stains and dirt when you apply it to a page. Rub a small piece of the sponge over the stain you want to remove, discarding the sponge bit when it’s no longer effective.Ībsorbene is a book person’s best friend. Vulcanized rubber dirt erasers, often called dry cleaning sponges, are the second. Stainsĭocument cleaning pads are a good first step for stain removal too. Leave the book in the cold for a few hours. Luckily, a stint in the freezer will make it easier to pop that gunk off the page with a razor. Food residue is some of the worst of this category, but not the only culprit by far. Grime is any gross stuff that you can feel when you run your finger over it. The paper towel will absorb the grease within hours or days. Close the book and put weight on top of it. It’s got groove, it’s got feeling, but it can’t stay in your book. If you’re serious about the war on mildew, check out Biblio’s article on the stuff. Keeping your library clean is a great way to prevent mold and mildew from becoming a problem. (Don’t let these substances get on the book itself.) That should absorb the last of the musty scent. Brush away the infection only after protecting the rest of the book and gently swab moldy spots with tiny amounts of denatured alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.Īfter you’ve cleaned away the mold, put the book in a sealed container with baking soda or activated charcoal for a few hours. Remember, mold and mildew are both alive and contagious. To treat mildewed or moldy pages, place a sheet of wax paper under the infected page before you treat it. It’s also a good idea to spot-test before applying. When that’s not possible, dampen a clean cloth very lightly with denatured alcohol and use it on covers, making sure to dry them thoroughly afterward. Use a fresh cloth or brush to remove mildew if you can see it. Mold and mildew are both bad for your health. If not, it’s time to kill some microorganisms.ĭon a dust mask. If your library of old volumes smells like a library of new volumes, then you’re doing your cleaning job well. The familiar and beloved “old book smell” is mostly mildew, which is terrible for your books. Tackle Grime, Mold, And Stains Mold and Mildew
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